History
Known as the 'skogkatt' in its native Norway, the Norwegian Forest Cat is a large, semi-longhaired cat whose rugged appearance fits its name. Although the Norwegian Forest Cat is a relatively new breed in Australia, it is a very old breed in Norway, featured in folk tales and mythology for centuries. The term skogkatt literally means 'forest cat'. In all probability, this was the cat the Viking explorers took with them to keep their ships clear of rodents, the same job they had in the barns in the Norwegian countryside. Their first arrival on the east coast of North America may have been with Leif Erickson or his contemporaries in the late 900s.
These tough cats managed to survive the extreme climate of Norway, a land where the sun does not set from mid-May until August, and where winter nights are long and bitterly cold. Because of this they developed long, dense, water-resistant coats, hardy constitutions, quick wits, and well-honed survival instincts.
Norwegian Forest Cats were almost lost as a distinct breed through hybridization with the free-roaming domestic shorthairs in Norway.
During the 1930s, an attempt was made to get the Norwegian Forest Cat breed recognised. The first Norwegian Cat club was established in 1934, and the first Forest Cat was exhibited at a show in Oslo, Norway. However, the destruction of World War II nearly led to the annihilation of the breed, and crossbreeding with Norway's shorthaired domestic cat (called the hauskatt) threatened to dilute its bloodlines.
Efforts after the war were finally successful, resulting in the Norwegian Forest Cat being not only welcomed into the show ring in Europe, but also designated the official cat of Norway by the late King Olaf. They were not exported from Norway until the late 1970s, and the first pair arrived in the United States in November of 1979.
These tough cats managed to survive the extreme climate of Norway, a land where the sun does not set from mid-May until August, and where winter nights are long and bitterly cold. Because of this they developed long, dense, water-resistant coats, hardy constitutions, quick wits, and well-honed survival instincts.
Norwegian Forest Cats were almost lost as a distinct breed through hybridization with the free-roaming domestic shorthairs in Norway.
During the 1930s, an attempt was made to get the Norwegian Forest Cat breed recognised. The first Norwegian Cat club was established in 1934, and the first Forest Cat was exhibited at a show in Oslo, Norway. However, the destruction of World War II nearly led to the annihilation of the breed, and crossbreeding with Norway's shorthaired domestic cat (called the hauskatt) threatened to dilute its bloodlines.
Efforts after the war were finally successful, resulting in the Norwegian Forest Cat being not only welcomed into the show ring in Europe, but also designated the official cat of Norway by the late King Olaf. They were not exported from Norway until the late 1970s, and the first pair arrived in the United States in November of 1979.
Legend
The breed's origins are a source of mystery. Norwegian Forest cats could be related to black-and-white short-haired cats from Great Britain, which the Vikings used as mousers on their ships. But they might also be descendants of long-haired cats brought to Scandinavia by the Crusaders.
Norwegian Forest cats aren’t just any pedestrian pet—they’re the stuff of legend. Norwegian myths tell of the skogkatt, a large, long-haired "mountain-dwelling fairy cat with an ability to climb sheer rock faces that other cats could not manage. The skogkatt was beloved by Freya, the Norse goddess of love and beauty, who some say traveled in a feline-drawn chariot. And in one Norwegian tale, Thor loses a contest of strength to the tricky god Jormungand, who’s disguised as a skogkatt. Thanks to these legends, some breeders today refer to the Norwegian Forest cat as the “Norse skogkatt.”
Norwegian Forest cats aren’t just any pedestrian pet—they’re the stuff of legend. Norwegian myths tell of the skogkatt, a large, long-haired "mountain-dwelling fairy cat with an ability to climb sheer rock faces that other cats could not manage. The skogkatt was beloved by Freya, the Norse goddess of love and beauty, who some say traveled in a feline-drawn chariot. And in one Norwegian tale, Thor loses a contest of strength to the tricky god Jormungand, who’s disguised as a skogkatt. Thanks to these legends, some breeders today refer to the Norwegian Forest cat as the “Norse skogkatt.”
Buying a Norwegian Forest Cat or kitten
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On purchasing a kitten or older cat from a Club breeder, you are assured peace of mind regarding the health and breeding of your cat, and you will be given a range of information to assist you with your new pet. Your kitten will be weaned and eating well, house trained and socialised. The breeders have a care sheet, which details the correct diet for your Norwegian Forest Cat, worming and flea control advice, and immunisation details. You will also be given an immunisation card for your kitten signed by a vet. Many breeders now have their kittens routinely desexed prior to selling them. This is a safe and quick procedure, the kittens are able to return home a few hours later and recovery times are much quicker than in older cats. If buying your kitten as a pet or as a show neuter and it has not been desexed, you will be asked to sign a conditional sales agreement, which requires the cat to be desexed and not be used for breeding.
Club breeders are able to assist with any questions related to the care and welfare of your Norwegian Forest kitten or cat. While they are not vets, they have built a wealth of knowledge and experience over their years of breeding and showing Norwegian Forest Cats. Your breeder will be able to assist with all aspects of caring for your new kitten, settling into a new home etc. Remember the only silly question is the one not asked. If you in any doubt about the health of your Norwegian Forest Cat, you should seek veterinary advice immediately. |
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Show standard
NORWEGIAN FOREST CAT
GENERAL STANDARD
The Norwegian Forest Cat originated as a wild cat in the forests of Norway thousands of years ago. It is a sturdy, powerful cat with a triangular head, almond eyes, large, longish body and a double coat. Full maturity can take up to five years. Males are generally considerably larger than females.
SCALE OF POINTS
HEAD: Wedge-shaped. Equilateral triangle, with all sides of equal length as measured from the outside of the base of the ear to the point of the chin. In profile, the straight line formed from the nose leather to the centre of the forehead, changes angle slightly, curves over the top of the skull and flows smoothly into the neck, without any irregularity. A long, straight line also extends from the brow ridge to the tip of the nose.
EARS: Medium to large, pointed on the top. Broad and open at the base, set as much on the side of the head as on the top. Alert, with the cup of the ear pointing a little sideways. The outsides of the ears follow the lines from the side of the head down to the chin. The ears are heavily furnished. Lynx tips are desirable but not required.
EYES: Large, almond-shaped, well-opened and expressive, set at a slight angle with the outer corner higher than the inner corner.
NOSE: Straight from the brow ridge to the tip of the nose without a break in the line. Not tapering. Nose leather not to be small.
CHEEKS: May appear to be outside the line of the wedge due to the longer coat and to the development of jowls in males.
JAWS: Forms part of the straight line extending from the muzzle toward the base of ear without pronounced whisker pads and without pinch. Some allowance should be made for slight whisker pads or a slight pinch in kittens.
CHIN: Firm, deep and in line with the tip of the nose. Gently rounded in profile.
NECK: Short and heavily muscled. Not in proportion to body length.
BODY: Solidly muscled and well-balanced, moderate in length, substantial bone structure, with powerful appearance showing a broad chest and considerable girth without being fat. Flank has great depth. Back straight. Males should be large and imposing. Females are generally smaller and more refined.
LEGS: Medium and in proportion to the body. Hind legs longer than front legs, making the rump higher than the shoulders. Thighs are heavily muscled, lower part of the legs substantial. When viewed from the rear, back legs are straight.
PAWS: Large, round, strong and firm, with heavy tufting between the toes.
TAIL: Long, bushy and broader at the base. Should reach at least to the shoulder blades, but preferably to the neck. Guard hairs desirable.
CONDITION: Excellent muscular condition is required. Any indication that the cat is not in good physical condition or has not had proper grooming should be penalised.
SCALE OF POINTS
Head (incl. muzzle, ears, eyes, chin and profile) 35
Body (incl. legs, feet, bone, and length of tail) 35
Coat (incl. length, texture and colour) 20
Eye colour 5
Condition 5
TOTAL 100
FAULTS / PENALTIES
REFER TO GENERAL LIST OF FAULTS FOR ALL BREEDS, PLUS:
PENALISE:
Small or finely-built cats.
Round or square head.
High, erect and/or small ears.
Small or round eyes.
Small nose leather.
Short legs.
Flabbiness or obesity.
WITHHOLD:
Dip or break in nose in profile.
Square muzzle.
Whisker pinch.
Long rectangular body.
Cobby body.
COAT AND COLOUR
COAT LENGTH AND TEXTURE: Distinguishing double coat, consisting of a dense undercoat, covered by long, glossy and smooth water-resistant guard hairs hanging down the sides, which may be slow to develop in kittens. Ideally, the bib consists of three separate sections – short collar at neck, side muttonchops and frontal ruff, although this may not develop in the warmer climates of Australia. Allowance should be made for this, especially in warmer areas. Britches are full on the hind legs.
The coat may be fuller in the winter than summer because the dense undercoat has its full development in winter. Softer coats are permitted in shaded, solid and bi-colour cats. Type and quality of coat is of primary importance; colour and pattern being secondary.
COLOUR AND PATTERN: Any recognized coat colour or recognized combination of coat colour except chocolate, lilac, cinnamon, fawn, caramel and apricot. Amber/Light Amber colour, unique to the Norwegian Forest Cat is recognized. Any recognized pattern except the Himalayan pattern. The colour and pattern should be clear and distinct. In the case of the classic, mackerel and spotted patterns, tabbies should be well marked and even.
NOTE: Buttons and lockets are allowable on any colour and/or pattern.
EYE COLOUR: Shades of green, green-gold, gold, orange or copper. Blue-eyes or odd-eyes are also allowed for white or bi- colour (including vans) patterned cats.
NOSE LEATHER: Plain or mottled, to tone with the coat colour in the nose area.
PAW PADS: Plain or mottled, to tone with the coat colour in the nose area.
BREEDING
No allowable outcrosses
GENERAL STANDARD
The Norwegian Forest Cat originated as a wild cat in the forests of Norway thousands of years ago. It is a sturdy, powerful cat with a triangular head, almond eyes, large, longish body and a double coat. Full maturity can take up to five years. Males are generally considerably larger than females.
SCALE OF POINTS
HEAD: Wedge-shaped. Equilateral triangle, with all sides of equal length as measured from the outside of the base of the ear to the point of the chin. In profile, the straight line formed from the nose leather to the centre of the forehead, changes angle slightly, curves over the top of the skull and flows smoothly into the neck, without any irregularity. A long, straight line also extends from the brow ridge to the tip of the nose.
EARS: Medium to large, pointed on the top. Broad and open at the base, set as much on the side of the head as on the top. Alert, with the cup of the ear pointing a little sideways. The outsides of the ears follow the lines from the side of the head down to the chin. The ears are heavily furnished. Lynx tips are desirable but not required.
EYES: Large, almond-shaped, well-opened and expressive, set at a slight angle with the outer corner higher than the inner corner.
NOSE: Straight from the brow ridge to the tip of the nose without a break in the line. Not tapering. Nose leather not to be small.
CHEEKS: May appear to be outside the line of the wedge due to the longer coat and to the development of jowls in males.
JAWS: Forms part of the straight line extending from the muzzle toward the base of ear without pronounced whisker pads and without pinch. Some allowance should be made for slight whisker pads or a slight pinch in kittens.
CHIN: Firm, deep and in line with the tip of the nose. Gently rounded in profile.
NECK: Short and heavily muscled. Not in proportion to body length.
BODY: Solidly muscled and well-balanced, moderate in length, substantial bone structure, with powerful appearance showing a broad chest and considerable girth without being fat. Flank has great depth. Back straight. Males should be large and imposing. Females are generally smaller and more refined.
LEGS: Medium and in proportion to the body. Hind legs longer than front legs, making the rump higher than the shoulders. Thighs are heavily muscled, lower part of the legs substantial. When viewed from the rear, back legs are straight.
PAWS: Large, round, strong and firm, with heavy tufting between the toes.
TAIL: Long, bushy and broader at the base. Should reach at least to the shoulder blades, but preferably to the neck. Guard hairs desirable.
CONDITION: Excellent muscular condition is required. Any indication that the cat is not in good physical condition or has not had proper grooming should be penalised.
SCALE OF POINTS
Head (incl. muzzle, ears, eyes, chin and profile) 35
Body (incl. legs, feet, bone, and length of tail) 35
Coat (incl. length, texture and colour) 20
Eye colour 5
Condition 5
TOTAL 100
FAULTS / PENALTIES
REFER TO GENERAL LIST OF FAULTS FOR ALL BREEDS, PLUS:
PENALISE:
Small or finely-built cats.
Round or square head.
High, erect and/or small ears.
Small or round eyes.
Small nose leather.
Short legs.
Flabbiness or obesity.
WITHHOLD:
Dip or break in nose in profile.
Square muzzle.
Whisker pinch.
Long rectangular body.
Cobby body.
COAT AND COLOUR
COAT LENGTH AND TEXTURE: Distinguishing double coat, consisting of a dense undercoat, covered by long, glossy and smooth water-resistant guard hairs hanging down the sides, which may be slow to develop in kittens. Ideally, the bib consists of three separate sections – short collar at neck, side muttonchops and frontal ruff, although this may not develop in the warmer climates of Australia. Allowance should be made for this, especially in warmer areas. Britches are full on the hind legs.
The coat may be fuller in the winter than summer because the dense undercoat has its full development in winter. Softer coats are permitted in shaded, solid and bi-colour cats. Type and quality of coat is of primary importance; colour and pattern being secondary.
COLOUR AND PATTERN: Any recognized coat colour or recognized combination of coat colour except chocolate, lilac, cinnamon, fawn, caramel and apricot. Amber/Light Amber colour, unique to the Norwegian Forest Cat is recognized. Any recognized pattern except the Himalayan pattern. The colour and pattern should be clear and distinct. In the case of the classic, mackerel and spotted patterns, tabbies should be well marked and even.
NOTE: Buttons and lockets are allowable on any colour and/or pattern.
EYE COLOUR: Shades of green, green-gold, gold, orange or copper. Blue-eyes or odd-eyes are also allowed for white or bi- colour (including vans) patterned cats.
NOSE LEATHER: Plain or mottled, to tone with the coat colour in the nose area.
PAW PADS: Plain or mottled, to tone with the coat colour in the nose area.
BREEDING
No allowable outcrosses
General Care
Care of the Eyes and Ears
Check your cat/kitten's ears regularly. Clean them carefully with cotton buds. If you repeatedly find small bits of dark matter and if the cat scratches and shakes its' head a lot, consult a veterinarian, as the cat may have ear mites. If your cat has continually runny or weeping eyes, consult a veterinarian.
Trimming Claws
You should trim the tips of the claws on the front feet once a month with special clippers available at pet stores. Ask your vet to show you how to do this.
Checking the Teeth
If you feed your cat a complete diet it should have perfect teeth. Unfortunately, however, some cats develop tartar and inflamed gums. You should therefore check your pet's mouth regularly. Consult your veterinarian if you see something you suspect requires treatment, the cats' breath is offensive or the cat dribbles continuously.
Grooming
The coat of a semi-longhaired cat should be thoroughly combed at least once a week. In the spring and autumn, when the cat grows a new coat, weekly combing is necessary because the fine hair of the undercoat gets matted easily at these times.
Start grooming the coat and checking ears and teeth early, when the kitten is about twelve weeks old, so that it will become used to these procedures. Most cats love to be brushed, particularly if you stop periodically to pat them.
When giving your cat its daily cuddle, let your fingers automatically feel in the obvious areas where knots usually form (behind the ears, under the chin and tummy) and gently tease the knots out. If your cat objects to this, get help from another person and carefully cut the knots out before they become large masses.
Start grooming the coat and checking ears and teeth early, when the kitten is about twelve weeks old, so that it will become used to these procedures. Most cats love to be brushed, particularly if you stop periodically to pat them.
When giving your cat its daily cuddle, let your fingers automatically feel in the obvious areas where knots usually form (behind the ears, under the chin and tummy) and gently tease the knots out. If your cat objects to this, get help from another person and carefully cut the knots out before they become large masses.
Bathing
It is not necessary to regularly bath your kitten/cat, unless you intend to show it, or you reside in an area susceptible to fleas and other parasites. Club members can explain to you the simplest method for bathing your cat, but again it is better to get the cat used to it at an early age. Remember, most cats do not like water. Members can also guide you in preparing your Norwegian Forest Cat to show standard if you intend showing it.
